Twenty-five years ago, a peace accord between NATO and the Yugoslav government ended the violent war in Kosovo. Today, restaurants and bazaars, mosques and museums throughout the country share pieces of a culture that so many people lost their lives to preserve—in a way, that looks like Ruzhdi Qarri’s cradles, and tastes like the high alpine Sharri butter I spread on my bread in Prishtina.
Where to eat in Kosovo
The old-style stone house and colorful uniform worn by servers stay just a step away from costume-y, mostly because they accompany such excellent versions of traditional food, including the layered pancake dish, flija, the soul-warming lamb casserole tavë Prizreni.
Much of Kosovo’s food is either homey and local or fancy and foreign, but chef Florina Skeja shows the best of both worlds, celebrating Kosovo’s culinary traditions with ingredients straight from the farm (sometimes her own farm). The space is small and casual, the service warm, and the seasonal tasting menu is about the best way to feast on Kosovo’s finest ingredients, from the first glass of house-made myrtle brandy to the last bite of Cornelian cherry puree over frozen clotted cream.
Burektore Bleta, Peja
This simple shop has almost no signpost, just letters in the window identifying it as a burek (layered pastry) shop. But a chef friend called it the “best burek in Kosovo,” and my meal there confirmed it—as do the crowds, which require packing patience as the family operation takes a little time to deliver.
Qebaptore Buqja, Peja
The crowded grill tips off passersby that this kebab shop has plenty of business, and deservedly so. A multitude of meat options, in patties, sausages, chops, and slices, fill the fresh case, and each one comes with a stack of fluffy, freshly baked bread, round and chewy. Sharp salads and spicy peppers round out the offerings at this quick, casual place.
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Where to stay in Kosovo
In a quiet suburb of Prishtina, this attractive hotel features a sparkling pool and a rare model of cross-cultural camaraderie: it is staffed by a mix of Albanian, Serbian, and Roma employees. Pops of color from traditional local textiles elegantly interrupt the stylish minimalism of the terrazzo walls and floors, with plenty of bare wood touches. Similar works, by local craftspeople, are available in the gift shop. (Doubles from $85)
Get a taste of the nearby nature at this sleek modern stay just outside Peja, where the balconies open up to the White Drin Waterfall from which it takes its name. Walking paths over and under it leave from just behind the restaurant, where the glass wall and sprawling patio both offer excellent views for diners digging into the local trout. Polished service and higher-end touches make it a favorite of visitors from the diaspora. (Doubles from $80)
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Edited by Shannon McMahon