The property also has a “kids room” stocked with games, toys, and other entertainments that we could barely pull either kid away from, plus offers babysitting services during dinner—leaving us to peruse the wine list. A round outdoor raised-rim pool facing Mt. Kilimanjaro served as the ideal spot to cool off; the staff even brought lunch boxes out one day so that we could enjoy a casual, picnic-like meal after taking a dip. And sundowners at the Mnara, the resort’s striking observation tower, provided opportunities for our entire crew to be outside, observing the surrounding fever tree forest and spotting out elephants outside of a safari jeep.
Booking an exclusive-use property means that your kids won’t disturb anyone else
We built in stays at Collection in the Wild’s Amani House villa and at Kalepo Camp, both of which are exclusive-use, so our two-family crew had the run of each place. Not only did we not worry that a baby crying in the night or a kindergartner’s spontaneous dance party would disturb the peace of other travelers, but the personal attention from the staff and accommodations for kid-friendly treats (like hot chocolate served in a to-go mug for an early game drive at Amani House) were bar none. Dietary preferences and odd sleeping schedules were easily accommodated.
Cultural experiences can be just as memorable as animal-spotting
Much as game drives were a major part of nearly every day we spent in Kenya, both kids occasionally snoozed through a portion of them. In Samburuland, however, we took part in a game day with Samburu warriors, arranged by Kalepo Camp founders Robert and Storm Mason—who’ve forged a close connection to a local tribe. After a short ride to a sandy gaming area, our six-year-old was quickly immersed in singing, dancing, prayers, and athletic contests: jumping, racing, throwing a stick through a moving hoop, and more. Our baby happily clapped and stomped along, or simply watched in awe. As did the adults. We participated but mainly marveled at the athleticism and the warriors’ beautiful, intricate attire of beadwork, feathers, and patterned cloth. And, after the day’s activity had worn out the children, the adults relaxed in chairs placed directly into a river running past the property, looking at the stars and listening to the sounds of the bush while cool water trickled over our toes.
Varying the pace with out-of-the-vehicle expeditions keeps kids engaged
Our kindergartner was just barely old enough to come along for a hot air balloon ride (the baby stayed behind for this one) and this “air safari” spent skimming over elephant families on the move and hippo pods in rivers, left her constantly tapping my arm and begging me to take photos of what she saw. We also had a close encounter with giraffes at Nairobi’s Giraffe Centre (a sanctuary for a family of endangered Rothschild giraffes) where visitors can feed the friendly giants healthy food pellets. Even our toddler successfully had a pellet slurped from her palm by a long, black giraffe tongue—after she jerked back in surprise, a fit of giggles followed. Experiencing these moments with, and through, my kids only added to my own wonder.
If something goes wrong, advocate for what you need
Honestly, in retrospect, things went remarkably smoothly on this trip, exceeding my and my wife’s expectations. The baby managed to nap on the fly most days, the six-year-old didn’t have notable tantrums, and both generally ate everything (pillowy mandazi, or African donuts, became a breakfast favorite). But toward the end of our trip there was one property, quite far out in the bush, where, as it had just rained, the bugs were out in full force. The first night’s open-air evening meal turned disastrous as dozens of locusts, attracted to our lights, started ping-ponging off our heads and plates. It might have been humorous—while still disruptive—had it not scared our children so much. Dimming the lights didn’t help, and the staff couldn’t find another solution to block the bugs. No one ate much, and with all the kids’ tears, no one lingered either.