Though the global obsession with South Korea’s cultural and tangible exports (K-pop, K-beauty, K-dramas) has at long last catapulted Seoul into the limelight, travelers should understand that belying these of-the-moment pleasures is a rich, complex history stretching over 2,000 years. If there’s a single destination that embodies dichotomy, it’s Seoul. As South Korea’s capital and largest city, with over 26 million people in the metropolitan area, it offers a beguiling mix of historic and modern; natural and technological; affordable and extravagant. (Even the Korean flag is emblazoned with a yin-and-yang symbol.)
It’s massive, too—sprawling over 233 square miles with the Han River dividing Seoul north to south. From there, the city is organized into 25 districts, which all have their own distinct neighborhoods. Centrally located Jung-gu, for example, is home to historic Gwanghwamun, shopping mecca Myeongdong, and hipster haven Euljiro.
The most important thing to know? Don’t let Seoul’s size dissuade you. It’s easier than you think to get around, and there are free translation and navigation phone apps for extra peace of mind. But because Seoul is packed with things to do, places to eat and drink, and hotels to stay, we’ve narrowed down our top picks in this guide curated by a lifelong visitor.
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Getting there and around
After landing at Incheon International Airport, download the Papago app for Korean to English translations (and vice versa), and purchase a refillable T-Money Card to pay for taxis, subways, and buses—the three main modes of transport. While you can hail taxis, which are plentiful as they are affordable, from the streets, you can also book them in advance with Kakao Taxi. The app supports English, and lets you select your pickup, destination, and payment method. (If you’ve just landed at the airport; however, just head to a taxi stand outside.) Because traffic is regularly an issue, make the subway your primary way of getting around. Seoul’s system is widely regarded as one of the world’s best with spotless cars, free Wi-Fi, announcements in Korean and English, and even heated seats come winter.
The best things to do in Seoul
Because traditional Korean spirits are trending big time right now, book a Matter of Mind class at Epkkot‘s lab and studio, discreetly tucked away in Chungmuro. Founder Yang Yoomi, one of Seoul’s few female distillers, guides participants on a creative journey to help identify their true selves while diving deeper into the world of Korean spirits. The introspective process, Yang believes, is similar to brewing with rice, whose grains must be constantly tended to.