Over the coming weeks, some 15 million visitors will descend upon Paris for the 2024 Olympics. And many will linger longer, hitting the country’s hotspots such as the much-loved Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, which already teems with travelers. So if you’ve been eyeing a hotel nestled in the quaint town of Gordes, or dreaming about a dip off the coast of Antibes or Saint-Tropez, you might want to think again. But that doesn’t mean you have to rule out a sojourn to the South of France altogether–other sunny locations including lesser-trafficked Marseille and the Luberon Valley, sans Masseratis and glitzy Gucci slides, are indeed worthwhile for a quiet city break.
A rebirth in Marseille
Skip flying through Paris and take a direct flight to Nice (both La Compagnie and Air France fly direct from New York City this time of year.) If Paris is an unavoidable layover, consider a connecting flight that will land you in Marseille (rather than Nice), a seaside city that has had a major resurgence. The gritty port city isn’t only seasonal and teeming with tourists, but home to much of France’s cool crowd. In recent years, there’s been an influx of creatives here, from Paris and beyond. With them, came a slew of new restaurants, bars, and shops; last year, Texan-born supermodel Erin Wasson opened a bakery, Cécile Food Club, with her Marseille-born husband, Barthelemy Tassy.
Check into Le Bords De Mer, the towering white boutique hotel that sits on the water’s edge with rooms overlooking over the Med. Grab lunch at the restaurant for a Marseille-classic: chickpea fries with anchovy mayo, accompanied by a glass of Champagne. Then, squeeze in a shop at Maison Empereur, an old-school store with a labyrinth of wood-paneled rooms stocking more items than you would find in Mary Poppins’ bag, from bath bombs to retro ice cream dishes and chic gardening shoes. Wind down the day with a Spritz or Tuba negroni at the Tuba Club Restaurant, where tables are planted on the rocks, where waves pound below. Stay for dinner or head into the Opera District in the city for a meal at Premices, a snug two-story dining room filled with locals, where the creative kitchen highlights local producers with plates such as turnips with kiwi salsa verde.
A new crop of creativity in the Luberon Valley
Avoid the rosé seekers jamming up the coastline’s buzzy beach bars, and make a beeline for this area with pockets of refuge that’s known for its rolling hills and historic towns with bustling markets. Domaine De Chalamon, located on the outskirts of Saint-Remy-de-Provence, is a perfect spot to base yourself. The property is set in a 16th-century bastide surrounded by 15 acres of manicured gardens that look like they belong in Versaille—but rest assured the hotel attracts comparably modest travelers.
On a sunny day, you’ll probably find couples quietly reading their books or French families lazing by the pool. It’s the kind of low-key luxury you want from Provence: a typical French country house with rooms that have splashes of pink and sage green and a sun-dappled patio set under towering trees, like something out of a Peter Mayle book.